Stumble It!If you love cheese, Artisanal is the place for you - but not during Restaurant Week. Last night was my first experience at Artisanal, and perhaps it would have been more memorable if I wasn't limited to the Restaurant Week menu. The setting is very Parisian; deep red leather banquettes with spherical lamp posts dotted along the tops, white tiled floors and soft paintings on the walls completed the look.
Our waiter arrived (in a white button down shirt and crisp black vest of course) and let us peruse the menus and wine list before he returned with the bread. The service was very prompt, but I wasn't sure if it was genuine or "please-get-the-hell-out-of-here-its-restaurant-week" mentality. I assumed the latter since the place was packed; everytime someone got up or sat down next to us I had to hold my glass of wine so they wouldn't bump it with their butt and knock it over. And speaking of wine, we ordered a 2006 Chateau Tour which was fruity and not overly dry or strong; a delicate balance for our meal.
Out of the appetizers we had a choice of the soup du jour (last night it was chilled melon soup), parmesan gnocchi with peas, or mesclun salad with herb vinaigrette. For entrees we had a choice of vegetable risotto, Moroccan glazed salmon, or hanger steak frites. I was surprised to see that the only cheeses being offered was a small plate for dessert; Artisanal is known for their blue and brie cheese fondue. Needless to say I was a little disappointed by that, so we decided on the gnocchi and the mesclun salad, then the risotto and hanger steak.
The parmesan gnocchi would be the winner of these two appetizers, though that could be because the "salad" was just a heaping bowl of lettuce with literally three drops of herb vinaigrette. I couldn't taste any dressing, and the lettuce was just OK. The parmesan gnocchi was creamy, salty and an explosion of flavor compared to the salad. However, I think they used all their salt in the gnocchi, because my vegetable risotto was completely lacking a salty bite. It was a bright green color from the asparagus and fava beans, and it was definitely creamy with shaved bits of parmesan cheese on top (which added a little saltiness), but I still had to add more salt and pepper. On a brighter note, I would definitely recommend the hanger steak - it was tender, juicy and had a slightly charred crust on the outside, while the fries were skinny, crispy and addictive. I must admit though, I was very jealous of this group of girls sitting next to us; evidently they had completely ignored the restaurant week menu and ordered the fondue. It smelled heavenly. Watching them dunk their little cubes of bread into the melted cheese made me very envious.
Fortunately, the dessert course exceeded my expectations. An incredibly creamy yet light pecan and praline cheesecake with caramel sauce was so decadent, I literally had to tell them to take it away or I'd be licking the plate. The chilled summer berry soup was also delicious; made of raspberries, blueberries, and strawberries topped with a fromage blanc sorbet (white cheese ice cream), you could taste the mix of sweet and tart with a hint of star annise.
Taking into account the crowded room and obnoxious noise-level, Artisanal seems like it might be a more enjoyable experience after restaurant week is over. The group of girls sitting next to us might have had the right idea all along. Note to self: must return for fondue, and possibly more cheesecake.
Artisanal
2 Park Avenue, 212-725-8585
