First off, I haven’t written on here in a while, and there have been some updates.
Probably the most important: I was diagnosed with a brain aneurysm a few weeks ago. It’s not as scary as it sounds (though it’s still scary), and I’m ok — we just need to monitor it. You can read more about that on my Substack here.
So anyway. The day I went to the ER, I booked a trip to Montreal with my mom. Literally right before I went to CityMD, I booked our flights to Montreal. An hour later, I was in the ER. If you want to make God laugh, tell him your plans. But either way, I was cleared to fly by my doctors, so why cancel? If I ever needed a break – a few days of good food, no agenda, and a city I’d never properly explored – it was right now.
Ten days later, off to Montreal we go. No reservations, no real itinerary, just my mom, two (or three) bad knees between us, and a lot of appetite.
Bonus: the flight is SO quick from NYC – roughly an hour – and as two people who hate flying, this was huge. Can’t recommend Montreal enough!
If you’re someone who likes walking, I would say this is definitely a walking city – we walked around Old Montreal quite a bit and there’s so many cute shops and restaurants. There’s also another area called Le Plateau which is popular to walk around as well!
WHERE I STAYED
Booked through my friend and Fora Travel Advisor Diana — if you need a travel advisor, she’s your person. She made it so easy. I told her my budget and where I wanted to go/stay, and she gave me a few options that made sense. It was great. Click here to get in touch with Diana!
If you’re unfamiliar with Fora, they get you some really cool perks with booking – like a $100 hotel credit, room upgrades, champagne upon check-in, and more.
I also used my other Fora-friend and Travel Advisor Alexis, for my Greece and Sicily trip last year. Click here for her! I hate searching for hotels and these people know what they’re doing, so check them out if you need help booking your travel!
W Montreal | 901 Rue du Square-Victoria, Downtown Montreal
The W sits right at the edge of Old Montreal, which was perfect for me and my mom. Close enough to walk to the old port and everything in that area, but on normal sidewalks rather than the cobblestone streets, which can be brutal if you have any knee issues — and between the two of us, we definitely do. The hotel is gorgeous, the staff was genuinely warm and helpful, and the location couldn’t have been more convenient. Would absolutely stay again.
Book: marriott.com
WHERE WE ATE
Joe Beef | 2491 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest, Little Burgundy
⭐ 4.8 | Open Tue–Sat from 5pm | $$$$
One of the most talked-about restaurants in Montreal and one of the most recommended. Literally every person I spoke to had the same rec. Joe Beef has been around since 2005 and built its reputation on indulgent, French-influenced cooking with a serious wine list. Also happens to be the late Anthony Bourdain’s favorite. The menu changes frequently, therefore the ONLY complaint I had was that they didn’t have much actual beef on the menu. There were literally two options: a cote de bouef for $250 (for 2 people) and a filet. My mom got the filet, and I had the lobster spaghetti. Both excellent. The salad was also one of my fave things with COPIOUS amounts of cheese. Most people tell you to make a reservation months in advance. We walked in at 5pm right when they opened and got a table. Patience and timing was the whole strategy.
Reserve: joebeef.com | 514-935-6504
Monarque | 406 Rue Saint-Jacques, Old Montreal
⭐ 4.2 | Open daily from 11:30am (dinner only Sat/Sun from 5pm) | $$$$
A gorgeous brasserie in the heart of Old Montreal’s financial district, inside a beautifully restored historic building. This was the one reservation I actually made and it turned out I didn’t even need it because the place is huge – they had plenty of room when we arrived for lunch. The food was super fresh and beautifully executed – the heirloom tomato salad with straciatella was great, and the beef tartare was delicious. The space alone is worth going for. If you want somewhere that feels special without feeling stuffy, this is it.
Reserve: restaurantmonarque.ca | 514-875-3896
Beauty’s | 93 Avenue du Mont-Royal Ouest, Mile End
⭐ 4.5 | Open Wed–Mon from 8am (closed Tuesdays) | $$
A Montreal institution since 1942. Beauty’s is a classic diner in the Mile End neighborhood that has been run by the same family for over 80 years. No reservations taken, ever. We waited about 15-20 minutes in line which honestly moved pretty quickly and was completely worth it. The drip coffee was some of the best I’ve had in a long time — real diner coffee, not the artisan pour-over stuff. And they get their bagels from St. Viateur, which is legendary in its own right, so you’re essentially getting two iconic Montreal experiences for the price of one. Highly recommend the pancakes!
No reservations | 514-849-8883
Arthur’s Nosh Bar | Le Cathcart Food Hall, Downtown Montreal
⭐ 4.3 | Open Mon–Fri 11am–2pm, Sat–Sun 10am–3pm | $$
Fair warning: this place took me forever to find because it’s tucked inside Le Cathcart, which is a food hall situation in the heart of downtown. Once I found it, we waited about 10 minutes and were seated. That’s it. Arthur’s is known for their Jewish-inspired comfort food, specifically the Syrniki, which are cottage cheese pancakes that are sooo good – the cripsy edges are life. I am no stranger to these since they also make them at Mile End Deli here in BK, in case you got a hankering and you live in NYC. This Arthur’s is not the original location (that one’s in St-Henri) but it’s the more convenient one if you’re staying downtown. Worth the hunt.
Reserve: https://www.arthursmtl.com/ | 438-924-8168
La Banquise | 994 Rue Rachel Est, Plateau-Mont-Royal
⭐ 4.8 | Open 24 hours, every day | $
If you go to Montreal and don’t get poutine, did you even go? La Banquise is the local recommendation for this – it’s been around since 1968, it’s open 24 hours, it’s loud and casual and completely unpretentious, and the poutine is genuinely excellent. They have over 25 varieties on the menu. I went with the classic and the gravy was some of the best I’ve ever had – super oniony and rich and deeply savory. I could have eaten more, and the portion was pretty big. We went on a Friday evening around 6:30 and got a table immediately. Being a party of two helps. Do not skip this or you will have regrets.
https://labanquise.com/en/ | 514-525-2415
Casino de Montréal | 1 Ave du Casino, Île Notre-Dame
⭐ 4.2 | Open daily (hours vary by floor) | Free admission
Built inside the original Quebec and French pavilions from Expo 67, which alone makes it worth a visit – five floors, beautiful bones, and genuinely impressive scale. My mom loves the slots, so this was a non-negotiable, and it was about a 15-20 minute Uber from our hotel. The bartenders were fantastic and gave us a ton of great local recommendations (including La Banquise). We also randomly snagged tickets to an 80s cover band show happening that same night! So fun. After the show we grabbed food at L’Instant, a fast casual spot in the casino. I had a steamed hot dog with spicy slaw and fried onions and fries, which is apparently a whole Montreal thing (the steamed buns) and it was actually really good. Maybe not the most nutritious meal, but hit the spot.
No reservations needed for general admission | casinos.lotoquebec.com
Scandinave Spa | 71 Rue de la Commune Ouest, Old Montreal
⭐ 4.0 | Open daily 9am–10pm
Everyone told us to go to Bota Bota, the floating spa on a boat (despite how I feel about boats), but I forgot my bathing suit and it was a little cool and rainy, so the outdoor hydrotherapy situation wasn’t calling my name. It does look very cool though and I don’t believe the boat moves. Either way, we went to Scandinave instead and just did massages – no thermal circuit, just a classic massage – and it was exactly what I needed since my neck has been acting up. The space is relaxing and pretty, the staff is attentive, and the whole vibe is genuinely restorative. If you’re going for the full thermal experience, book in advance because it fills up. If you just want a massage, you might have more flexibility.
Book: scandinave.com | 844-220-2009
Pigeon Cafe | 351 Place Royale, Old Port
⭐ no rating | Open daily from 8am | $$
A quick stop for chocolate croissants and coffee, and it delivered on both. Cute spot right in the Old Port area, super convenient if you’re doing any walking around that neighborhood in the morning. Nothing fancy, just a really solid café doing the basics well. That’s why I can’t give a rating since I didn’t really eat there or even sit inside.
pigeoncoffee.com | 438-375-6752
Franklins | 143 Rue Saint-Paul Ouest, Old Montreal
⭐ 3.7 | Open daily from 11am | $$
Okay, I have to be honest here because that’s what I do… I wasn’t impressed with this one. I had the poutine and the smoked meat sandwich and neither one spoke to me. The smoked meat was very greasy and way too fatty, and the poutine was kinda bland. The place was fine – casual, easy to get into, no wait – but if you’re going to Montreal specifically for smoked meat, go to Schwartz’s. At least that’s what I was told to do. I didn’t make it, and that’s on me. Consider this your reminder to not make the same mistake. This place would be cool for a drink and a quick snack, but I wouldn’t go out of my way for it.
franklinsmtl.com | 514-286-4449
A FEW THINGS I DIDN’T GET TO (BUT WOULD DO NEXT TIME):
- Schwartz’s for smoked meat — the original, the legendary, do not skip it like I did
- Bota Bota spa — bring a bathing suit, unlike me
- St. Viateur Bagel — we got their bagels at Beauty’s but I’d go to the actual shop next time
- Au pied du Cochon — everyone spoke of this “duck in a can” thing and I’m intrigued
- Le Violon — this was recommended to me by a few people
- Iconoglace — known for their vegan soft serve
- Ol’ Sweet Pastry — Montreal’s first chimney cake shop
